Monday, 8 October 2012

Spiders - 19th August 2012



Spiders
19th August
Anyone who knows me will know that when it comes to irrational and life-limiting fears, spiders are my Achilles heel.  So when it came to the question of Giant African Spiders, essentially I just flipped into Ostrich Mode- I mean, I could have done some pre-trip research but seriously,  what would have been the point?  “Sorry, Kambia Appeal,  I was really keen to spend six amazing and life changing months volunteering for you, but I’ve just google-imaged ‘The Spiders of Salone’ and almost had a heart attack so…….. I’m gonna stay in Blighty if that’s ok….?”*   

So, what’s  to do? There’s only so many times I can come screeching out of the latrine and wait, arms folded  in the pouring rain, to be rescued by Ibrahim (the master spider catcher) or Abbas (less skilful, but armed with super-strength Raid and a cheery smile ‘Oh, Kate, no worries, that spider, he can easily die!’)  And, of course, what happens when there’s no-one to help me?  Trembling in the dead of night (from impending  bladder rupture, likely as not!),  fateful imaginings taking flight….… Pincer fangs dripping with foul poisons! Abdomens bulging with a million translucent spiderlings! Glittering eyes!! Thick hairy legs spanning wider than dinner plates!!!  All lurking, waiting to pounce and devour me eyeball by eyeball!!!  Honestly, what kind of self respecting toilet allows itself to degenerate into some kind of hideous  Shelob’s Lair?!! 

These thoughts, they trouble me.  Essentially the only solution available is not to look for them.  Back of the door, ok sure-can’t have the escape route blocked off- but then-glasses off, squint a little, focus on my shoe, just the shoe, nothing else, definitely not the walls or the window ledge and definitely ,definitely not the ceiling. I know they’re there but if I don’t look too hard I can cope, I can survive.

And do you know? I caught myself thinking today that it’s really not all that different at the hospital. There are so many issues, so many problems (chiefly stemming, I think, from the double whammy of scant resources and a lack of effective leadership), that a forthright appraisal simply serves  to generate a slice of instant apathy with a sprinkling of mild paralysis to go.  But a squint, askance in the face of all the chaos, and certain things, certain people start come into focus.  Things that work, things that almost work, things that can be changed and people who are trying to make it happen.  So you pick your battles.  Cleaning the wards and getting observation and drug rounds going are our top priority this week, and Victoria’s been working hard on getting the malnourished kids fed overnight (and in the day!)   Later I’ll think about other stuff like antibiotic use and blood transfusion policies.  

Having said that, we have been to the last two weekly staff meetings.  These, I gather, are a sort of  emergency measure put in place by the District Medical Officer,  trying to keep things functional  until the new Medical Superintendent arrives (date TBC).  On one level this stuff is almost out of our remit, but then again, it’s proving an invaluable way to not only to show willing, but also of acquiring vital info-who’s  supposed to clean the wards,  how to order more antibiotics or blood grouping reagents when the paeds ward runs out, how to get the generator on for emergency oxygen…..just little things, you know J   It’s also quite handy for identifying who’s pushing for change behind the scenes, so to speak… And lo! More ampicillin did descend from the heavens, and the chlorinated waves did part upon the freshy scrubbed floors!

Maybe that’s enough about the admin for now-time for some clinical snippets (at this point I’d just like to apologise if any of the following is utter gibberish to non-medics…)  Case of the week was definitely the women, two weeks post partum, presenting with acute ascites (fluid in the belly).  There aren’t  many tests here (understatement!) so after much chinwagging and belly-prodding we tentatively agreed that the most likely cause was a clot in one of the veins draining the liver (James was convinced that she’s taken some pro-coagulant  ‘native ‘erbs’  featured  in the Trop Med handbook!)  Which was pretty bad news for her, given the complete lack of any treatment options.  Nonetheless, we did drain some of the fluid, partly for her comfort but thinking also to then send  it for dipstick and microspcopy.  Well, oh my goodness-I’ve never seen anything quite like it- two litres of frank pus, the colour of rancid custard, almost too thick to even aspirate…..tuberculosis, surely, but that’s not what the book said it should look like…nobody was really sure…. Mr Francis was duly summoned -had he seen anything like it during his 20 years manning the hospital laboratory? Yes, yes he had-TB.  And- get ready for the really crazy part-having a belly full of pus was actually a good outcome for this poor woman, because TB is treatable and, more to the point, the drugs are free. It’s the same with HIV-in a topsy turvy way making the diagnoses can actually seem like a positive step (although how much of that is just the comfort blanket of a definite diagnosis-so rare here-with a definite treatment I don’t quite know).  Incidentally nobody here will actually call it HIV-VCCT, RVS, ‘slim’ –honestly it’s almost like something out of Harry Potter-The Disease Which Must Not Be Named…

Over on the paediatric ward things are ticking along-hearts were heavy when we couldn’t find a child who’d been brought in sick as a dog the previous day, only to discover-joy of joys!!  that he was simply so much better, transformed by a quinine drip, that he was recognisable only by the puncture site where his cannula had been!! It’s not always such a happy ending, but when  it is it really does make it all seem worthwhile.  Erm, what else…a live chicken joined the ward round on Wednesday after  Sister  purchased it from a relative!!  I’ve also had my first taste of the operating theatre.  Anaesthesia was  just ketamine and diazepam - very disconcerting  to be sat holding up the jaw with one hand, feeling for the pulse with the other, the  patient still wriggling about eyes wide open!  There’s a sphygmomanometer, an oxygen concentrator and a sats probe but that’s it.  No ventilator and nothing to intubate with anyway.  It was scary, definitely, very scary, but Sister Conteh, our nurse anaesthetist, knew what she was about.  Knew the limitations of the technique, too, lamenting the lack of even basic equipment, but I guess at the end of the day these were life saving operations (caesarean and strangulated hernia)-and both those patients survived.

In other news we’ve also started teaching the  CHOs this week (community health officers-they take the role of doctors  after 2 years training) and are on schedule to start the Volunteer Nursing Aide program a week on Tuesday-the posters are up and ‘sensitisation’ (African buzzword) has begun!  Natasha joined our merry band last Sunday and the three of us-Suzanne, Tasha and myself,  are keen beans to crack on with training now, as it just seems by far the best way to improve things.  On a sadder note-James and Victoria are entering their last week here in Kambia-next week we’re all going down to Tacagamu chimpanzee sanctuary for the weekend but then they’ll be off back to the UK and we’re gonna miss them lots L
Right then, Ramadan ends today and there’s a party in the offing-I can smell it! So it’s a fond farewell from me ‘til next time.  Loving you all, God bless,

Kate

*Salticus , the ‘Tarantula of Rolleston’, your reign is ended!

Sunday, 12 August 2012

Kambia - 6th August 2012

6th August 2012

Two weeks into my adventure and the evening finds me sitting in our ‘toukel’ (being a round, open sided hut for communal living), penning this, the first instalment of my blog.  

It’s hot and it’s humid and I’m having to pause every few seconds to brush away the insects buzzing round the lcd display.  The night’s entertainment consists of the World Service-accordingly we’re all gathered round, listening to news of Team GB’s record 22-gold medal haul (whoop!)  I’m pretty sure the guys at the base, though polite, are essentially nonplussed by our constant medal updates and general Olympic enthusiasm!

So who’s here? Where am I exactly, and why?  I think a moment spent setting the scene and introducing the key players would be time well spent.....

I’m in West Africa, Sierra Leone to be exact-a small country about the size of Wales.  If you’ve heard of it at all it’s likely to be for all the wrong reasons; a decade long civil war ended only in 2002 and the effects are still visible at every turn.  Kambia district is in the North West of the country, on the border with Guinea and it’s population of around 300,000 is served by the government hospital in Kambia town, I guess the equivalent of one of our DGHs back home. That’s where I’ll be working for the next 6 months alongside the local staff and a few other UK doctors sent over by the Kambia Appeal. Currently we are four-James, Vicky, Suzanne and myself, and we are to be aided and abetted in our task by two VSO volunteers-Guusje (midwife) and Ryan (paediatric nurse) who have been at the hospital for almost 4 months now.


Home or ‘The Base’ is where we live with our Sierra Leonean family-Moses and Aunty, Charles and Abbas (the guys who look after us day to day) and several extended members including some very cheeky teenagers-Ibrahim, Alimamy-that means you!-and younger children-Small and Mamaya-who are all currently on their summer holidays.  I have my own little room separate from the main house, freshly painted in cheerful greens and yellows-perfect for a hobbit!  The curtains and bedspread are made of traditional printed fabric and I even have a four poster bed (!), albeit for the practical purpose of hanging an ITN (that’s a mozzy net to you layfolks ;)


Now then, I know you must all be very curious to know what the weather’s like here, being (mostly) British and all....Well, I can tell you that it’s wet.  Very, very wet-the height of the rainy season in fact.  I came prepared  for this-dry sacks, wellies, waterproofs, umbrella, decade-long apprenticeship in Manchester etc etc.......But unfortunately it turns out that none of that stuff actually helps at all....turns out this is badass tropical style wettest-country-in-Africa rain and nothing keeps the water out for long.  Nothing.  Fungi sprout from every join of wood, clothes and belts moulder, cuts and scrapes fester on without healing.  On very wet days we’re reduced to wading to work in our wellies, scrubs rolled above the knee (!) but all to no avail.  Thunder rolls, the heavens open, and within minutes the mud roads have all turned to rushing red torrents.  If you’re daft enough to be caught out in it (i.e. us), you’ll be soaked to the skin in no time and can then look forward to a delightful soggy-knickered day on the wards.  Even when it’s not raining the humidity can be up at 85%. Still, it is beautiful here, especially at nightfall when the crickets start to sing in the bushes and the huge orange sun dips quickly below the horizon, sinking the world into an inky darkness broken only by the flickering of a thousand kerosene lamps.


I’m acutely aware that I haven’t said very much about the hospital yet.  That’s because, to be honest, it’s all a little bit overwhelming and I don’t quite know where to start.....I work in a hospital without running water, without electricity (think light, heat, oxygen, whirrers, flashers, beepers, or indeed machinery of any kind), without morphine, blood counts, U+Es, X-Rays and, at the time of writing, without a resident Sierra Leonean doctor or surgeon.  Most of the staff are volunteers and a trained nurse is a rarity.  All this in a country which is consistently hovering near the foot of virtually any development table; where 1 in 5 children die before their 5th birthday.

To say that this is a million miles away from anything I’ve ever experienced before seems a little bit redundant.  If I’m honest, it’s worse than I expected-dirtier, more chaotic, especially the paediatric ward*  For now I’m just trying to settle in,getting to know my new colleagues, finding out how things work (or don’t, as the case may be!) etc etc..  But already several people have asked us if, like the previous Kambia Appeal volunteers, we will be running teaching sessions. Suzanne and I are both keen to get started as soon as we’ve got our bearings.  Hopefully my next letter home should contain more details of our fledgling efforts.

Ok, goodbye till then.  Missing you all rather a lot,

Kate


*although, Clare-if you’re reading this-your convulsions protocol is still on the wall-my very first experience on the children’s ward was a fitting boy being treated accordingly.  He went on to make a full recovery from his malaria.